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2005
BORDEAUX FUTURES OFFER
OFFER CLOSES December 31, 2006 ( Subject
to Availability )
This may be the shortest introduction I have ever written
to a Bordeaux vintage report. Virtually everybody has already
described the nearly ideal weather conditions, and the fact
that Bordeaux has produced something very special in 2005.
At present, comparisons with other vintages are cheap talk
designed to inflate prices, especially comparisons of 2005
to 1949, 1959, 1982, and 1990. One thing I am sure of after
twenty-eight years of tasting Bordeaux wines every March
is that 2005 can not be compared to any previous vintage
in my experience. Why?
One can safely generalize that many 2005 red Bordeaux possess
(1) the highest tannin levels ever measured, (2) the highest
dry extracts and concentration ever measured, (3) the highest
natural alcohol levels ever measured, and, an anomaly, (4)
surprisingly fresh, lively acid levels and reasonably modest
pH’s. What does all this mean, and how did it happen?
The short answer is that the growing season was extraordinarily
dry. It was also warm, but unlike most summers, scorching
heat waves never occurred. Consequently, the vineyards, if
slightly stressed from the drought-like conditions, were
never brutalized by torrid heat.
The cool nights and warm days preserved unprecedented levels
of acidity in the finest wines of the vintage, which are
characterized by massive richness and structure.
The incredibly high tannin levels, especially noticeable
in the northern Médoc communes of St.-Julien, Pauillac,
and St.-Estèphe, appear to be adequately balanced
by massive concentration and fruit. That’s a good sign.
But I remain convinced that the northern Médocs will
shut down after bottling, and will require many years of
cellaring until everything comes back into focus and harmony.
While these wines will possess 30-50 years of longevity,
they will not have the early appeal possessed by the 1982s
and 1990s.
It is no easy task to give readers a point of reference
for this vintage. To reiterate, I have never tasted so many
extraordinarily rich, concentrated, massive wines so high
in tannin and extract, yet with such precision, definition,
and freshness. It is clearly a singular vintage that should
evolve into one of the great vintages of Bordeaux. However,
it seems premature and risky to conclude so soon that the
finest wines of 2005 are superior to the best of 2003, especially
the northern Médocs, or the best wines of 2000, 1998 (for Pomerol
and St.-Emilion), 1990, or the most profound 1989s and 1982s.
Only time will prove the true quality of 2005, but it is
beginning life as an extraordinary as well as remarkably
consistent vintage. If there is any year even remotely similar,
it is 2000 because of the overall consistency, the high number
of superb offerings, and the fact that there are so many
good minor wines.
Robert Parker
NOTES PROVIDED BY : Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate (RP)
All Futures Purchases require a 75%
Deposit. Prices are guaranteed.
Prices do not include GST. All prices are
in $CDN/Bottle. Sold in minimum lots of
6 Bottles.
The Wine Cellar Inc.
12421 - 102 Avenue, Edmonton, Alberta, T5N 0M2
www.thewinecellar.ab.ca
ST EMILION
ANGELUS
( 96-98 ) $407.92
Could this be the most profound Angelus yet made by the brilliant
Hubert de Bouard since he turned this once under-achieving
estate around in the mid-eighties? A blend of 60% Merlot
and 40% Cabernet Franc, the spectacular, inky/blue/purple-hued
2005 (7,080 cases; 14.5% natural alcohol) exhibits an extraordinary
projected nose of blueberries, blackberries, liqueur of minerals,
flowers, and subtle, toasty new oak. Magnificently concentrated,
displaying a seamless integration of acidity, wood, tannin,
and alcohol, a soaring mid-palate, and a finish that lasts
over 60 seconds, this is a wine of compelling potential.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+.
BELLISLE-MONDOTTE ( 89-91 ) $38.06
Unquestionably the best example of Bellisle-Mondotte (which
lives in the shadow of its neighbor, La Mondotte) I have
yet tasted, the 2005 exhibits a deep ruby/purple color
along with sweet black fruit notes interwoven with new
oak, licorice, and loamy soil undertones. Medium to full-bodied,
moderately tannic, fresh, lively, and vibrant, it will
provide enjoyable drinking over the next 15 years.
CANON LA GAFFELIERE ( 92-94 ) $141.77
The qualitative equal of this estate’s top-notch 2000,
1998, and 1990, the 2005 Canon-La-Gaffeliere is a stunning
effort from proprietor Stephan von Neipperg. A blend of 55%
Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, it
possesses complex, fragrant aromas of spice box, black currants,
sweet cherries, and licorice. Dense, opulent, full-bodied,
pure, and layered, it is an impressively endowed St.-Emilion
that should evolve slowly, and last for 15 or more years.
FOMBRAUGE ( 90-92 ) $56.81
This estate has come on strong under the auspices of visionary
proprietor Bernard Magrez and winemaking consultant Michel
Rolland, and it has been one of this journal’s great
value picks over the last 7-8 vintages. In 2005, the harvest
took place between September 22nd and October 6th, and
the final blend consisted of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc,
and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. Its dense purple color is accompanied
by a sumptuous bouquet of white chocolate, graphite, black
cherry jam, and currants. Medium to full-bodied with moderate
tannin, more structure than usual, loads of glycerin, and
a persistent mouthfeel, it should be drinkable in 2-3 years,
and evolve for 12-15.
GRAND PONTET ( 91-94 ) $65.30
A fabulous effort, this deep, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2005
roars out of the glass like a runaway locomotive. Its technical
numbers are nearly off the charts by Bordeaux standards.
Although it reveals incredibly high levels of tannin as
well as 14+% alcohol, it possesses the vintage’s
characteristic freshness and liveliness. Loads of black
fruits, spice box, cedar, and pain grille notes emerge
from this structured blockbuster. It will benefit from
5-6 years of cellaring, and should last for 15-20 years.
MAISON BLANCHE ( 88-89 FD ) $25.22
Dark ruby/purple in colour ; jammy aromas of blackberry and
dark cherry, with a little bit of dark chocolate ; lively
burst of dark berry fruit, quite concentrated on
the palate ; soft tannins underly the fruit, and go on
to a lingering finish of sweet edged berry fruit. Compared
with the otherwines in this grouping, this is a
definite steal at this price. We have been buying Gerard
Despagne's wines since the
1985 vintage, and they have a proven track record
of ageing extremely well
TOUR DE CORBIN DESPAGNE ( 88-90 FD ) $29.19
Deep purple ruby colour ; aromas are blackberry, cherry and
spices, with a touch of liquorice ;
sweet blackberry fruit, some dark chocolate, with
underlying tannins ; an attractive finish, dominated
by the fruit - even some sweetness. The use of some older
barrels softens this wine, bringing out more of its natural
fruit. Needs at least 5 more years, but will hold its maturity
for another 12 years.
PAVIE MAQUIN ( 94-96 ) $122.03
Looking more like a young vintage port than a Bordeaux, Pavie-Macquin’s
inky/purple-colored 2005 exhibits notes of graphite, melted
licorice, espresso roast, crushed rocks, white flowers, blackberries,
and creme de cassis. Packed and stacked and stuffed with
extract, power, and tannin, this 75% Merlot/20% Cabernet
Franc/5% Cabernet Sauvignon blend’s technical numbers
are unprecedented. It should enjoy a remarkably long life
of three decades or more. The 2005 is capable of challenging
this estate’s brilliant 2003 and 2000.
TROPLONG MONDOT ( 96-100
) $232.99
A blockbuster, extraordinarily profound effort from proprietor
Christine Valette, the 2005 Troplong Mondot is the finest
wine she has made since the other-worldly 1990. It dense
black color is followed by a stupendous bouquet of blueberries,
blackberries, truffles, graphite, and smoke. It cascades
over the palate with exquisite density, purity, full-bodied
power, and remarkable freshness as well as delineation. This
magical wine somehow manages to harness extraordinary power
and structure with a sense of delicacy and finesse. Anticipated
maturity: 2011-2025+.
POMEROL
LA ROSE FIGEAC ( 89-91 FD) $47.45
- 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep,
full colour - black/purple ; perfumed aromas of blackberry
and dark cherry, with a good spray of
toasty oak ; well structured, yet quite pliant on the palate
- velvety texture ; concentrated flavours - sweet, full raspberry
and blackberry fruit ; exceptional finish - lingering fruit
over the sweet tannins. This is a superb wine
- much better than many higher priced Pomerols.
LA CONSEILLANTE ( 93-95 ) $227.99
The finest La Conseillante since 2000, the dense purple-colored
2005 displays notes of sweet raspberries, creamy vanilla
ice cream, spice box, and cedar. With good fruit, depth,
and a broad, savory attack as well as mid-palate, this
medium-bodied, finesse-styled, elegant wine represents
a synthesis in style between a grand cru red Burgundy and
a top-notch Bordeaux. Give it 3-5 years of bottle age,
and drink it over the following 20-25.
L’EVANGILE ( 93-95 ) $307.96
The finest l’Evangile since the 2000 and 1998 (the
chateau’s staff believes it will eclipse those two
vintages), the 2005 is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet
Franc produced from yields of 39 hectoliters per hectare.
It is aged in 100% new oak and some lots enjoy malolactic
in barrel. A saturated purple color is accompanied by sweet
aromas of blackberries, mocha, camphor, and hints of licorice
as well as spice. Finely etched tannins provide considerable
support and definition to this full-bodied, opulent Pomerol.
It easily conceals its lofty tannin and sizeable alcohol
(13.2%). Undeniably a top effort from one of Pomerol’s
finest terroirs, it should be at its peak between 2010-2030.
PESSAC LEOGNAN
CARBONNIEUX ( 91-93 ) $52.81
The finest Carbonnieux I have ever tasted, the deep ruby/purple-tinged
2005 offers gorgeously sweet aromas of black cherries, cassis,
spice box, smoke, and new oak. Medium-bodied, beautifully
rich, savory, and spicy, with moderate tannin, it will be
drinkable between 2009-2025. It reminds me of a synthesis
in style between a grand cru Burgundy and a classic Graves.
It is a brilliant wine!
DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER ( 91-94 ) $86.79
This beauty offers a strong argument that this may be the
finest Domaine de Chevalier since the 1970. Stephane Derenoncourt,
who was hired as the winemaking consultant, has built in
more texture while retaining the terroir’s tell-tale
elegance and fragrance. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon,
30% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it
boasts an inky/ruby/purple color as well as a sumptuous
perfume of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, black currants,
cherries, smoked herbs, and spice. With soft tannin, medium
to full body, beautiful opulence, impressive purity, and
abundant tannin, it may close down after bottling. Anticipated
maturity: 2008-2025.
Haut BAILLY ( 93-95 ) $123.03
This is the finest Haut-Bailly I have ever tasted, although
I suppose the 1900 or 1928 may have possessed similar qualities
at the same age. Quintessentially elegant and rich, with
surreal lightness and delicacy, it displays an inky/ruby
color and beautiful aromas of sweet raspberries, black
currants, flowers, graphite, and minerals. Medium-bodied
and stunningly concentrated with moderately high but sweet
tannin, this modern day legend represents a new reference
point for this estate (now American-owned). Anticipated
maturity: 2012-2030.
Haut Brion ( 96-100 ) $715.86
The 2005 Haut-Brion is an extraordinarily broad, rich, full-bodied
effort boasting huge aromas of scorched earth, plum sauce,
sweet cherries, black currants, and a hint of toasty oak.
The wine possesses huge tannins, which is somewhat deceptive
given its viscosity and opulence. Despite its intensity,
Haut-Brion is always a model of elegance and symmetry.
The profound 2005, which will undoubtedly shut down after
bottling, should be less seductive in its youth than either
the 1989 or 1990, but it will be incredibly long-lived.
Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040+.
Malartic-Lagraviere ( 90-93 ) $70.05
This estate has been resurrected over the last decade under
the inspired leadership of Belgian proprietor, Alexandre
Bonnie. The incredibly elegant 2005 is a classic Graves
offering wonderfully sweet aromas of berries, scorched
earth, flowers, and spice. Elegant, vibrant, super-endowed,
textured, rich, fresh, and lively, it should be approachable
in 3-4 years, and last for 25 or more.
PAPE CLEMENT ( 96-100 ) $232.99
The greatest Pape-Clement ever produced? There is no question
that proprietor Bernard Magrez, backed up by the eminent
consulting winemaker, Michel Rolland, has produced a succession
of brilliant wines over the last decade or more. The 2005,
a potential legend, boasts a dense purple color along with
a glorious, smoky bouquet displaying notions of graphite,
plums, cassis, licorice, and subtle oak. Full-bodied with
magnificent intensity, beautiful fresh acidity, tremendous
definition, and a powerful, moderately tannic, super-concentrated
finish, this beauty should come into its own by 2010, and
last for three decades or more. It is a prodigious effort!
Smith Haut Lafite ( 93-95 ) $106.79
I know it sounds like a broken record, but this may be the
best Smith-Haut-Lafitte ever made. A prodigious effort,
the 2005 boasts an inky/blue/purple color, sweet aromas
of graphite, white chocolate, espresso, and blue, red,
and black fruits, extraordinary density, moderately high
tannin, medium body, fabulous layers, and an enticing texture.
However, it comes across as delicate and fresh because
of its acidity. This ageworthy Graves should last for 25-30+
years.
MARGAUX
BOYD CANTENAC ( 90-93 ) $66.55
Boyd-Cantenac’s tannic, pure 2005 may be the finest
wine I have yet tasted from this estate. Like so many Margaux
cru classes, it performed extraordinarily well in this vintage.
An inky/purple color accompanies sweet blueberry and cassis
fruit, floral, licorice, and wet steel-like characteristics.
Deep, full-bodied, powerful, structured, and tannic, it is
a classic, long-lived effort to consume between 2011-2030+.
GISCOURS ( 90-93 ) $94.29
A full-bodied, powerful Giscours, the 2005 displays a deep
ruby/purple color as well as sweet aromas of red and black
fruits intermixed with loamy soil, dried herbs, and a hint
of pain grille. Good acidity, a plump, corpulent attack
and mouthfeel, medium to full body, superb depth of fruit,
plenty of glycerin (it must approach 14% alcohol), and
a lusty finish suggest this beauty will be approachable
young. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022.
LASCOMBES ( 94-96 ) $120.53
The most profound Lascombes produced under the new ownership,
the 2005 is a 25,000-case blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon,
45% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot. It boasts an inky/blue/purple
color in addition to an extraordinary perfume of charcoal,
barbecue smoke, grilled meats, and sweet blackberries,
cherries, and violets. With tremendous intensity, purity,
freshness, definition, palate presence, and a moderately
tannic finish (the tannin is sweet and well-integrated),
this blockbuster is rich and concentrated yet maintains
its Margaux typicity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030
PRIEURE LICHINE ( 91-94 ) $73.05
Even considering some of the great vintages produced under
the late Alexis Lichine, this estate has never made a wine
as impressive as their 2005. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt
is obviously realizing this vineyard’s full potential.
The deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by an open-knit,
exotic bouquet of spice, incense, flowers, and sweet black
cherries and blackberries. Rich and opulent, with ripe
tannin, a savory, voluminous mouthfeel, and wonderful definition
as well as elegance, this gorgeous wine is a tour de force
for Prieure-Lichine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
RAUZAN GASSIES ( 90-93 ) $68.05
I know I sound like a broken record, but here is another
estate that may have produced its finest wine ... ever.
Rauzan Gassies rarely merits a 90-point or higher score,
but their 2005 is a beautifully pure, structured, multi-textured
cuvee boasting an inky/purple color as well as a sweet
perfume of camphor, black currants, vitamins, and iron.
This pure, rich, moderately tannic, long Margaux will be
at its peak between 2009-2025.
DU TERTRE ( 91-94 ) $61.18
A terrific, fruit-forward Margaux offering wonderful smoky,
melted licorice, chocolate, espresso, creme de cassis,
and wild mountain berry notes, the 2005 Du Tertre possesses
a dense purple color, medium to full body, superb purity,
a sweet, expansive texture, and surprisingly silky, but
lofty tannins. This brilliant wine should be at its best
between 2008-2020.
ST JULIEN
BRANAIRE DUCRU ( 94-96 ) $95.04
Branaire, which has been ratcheting up the quality level
over the last 5-6 years, made such a great 2003, I am hesitant
to suggest the 2005 is as good, or even better. It will undoubtedly
come down to consumer’s personal preference, with the
2003 more exotic and flamboyant, and the 2005 more structured
or “classic.” In any event, the 2005 is one of
the top Branaires ever made. Its inky/ruby/purple color is
followed by sweet aromas of spring flowers interwoven with
black cherries, cranberries, cassis, plums, and hints of
forest floor, wet rocks, and new oak. With wonderful purity,
full body, terrific fruit intensity, a beautiful, expansive
texture, and a stunning 45-50-second finish, it should be
at its peak between 2011-2030.
DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU ( 92-94 ) $282.97
Bruno Borie has done a fabulous job at Ducru Beaucaillou.
The 2003 may be the greatest Ducru produced in the last
3-4 decades, and the 2005 is not far behind. A more backward
style of wine with higher tannin, more elevated acids,
and extremely high alcohol (13.6%) for this estate, its
inky/purple color is followed by notes of sweet cassis
and plums intermixed with licorice, crushed rocks, and
white flowers. Medium to full-bodied and structured with
a whoppingly long finish, it needs 8-10 years of cellaring.
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030+. It is a blend of 67%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot.
LAGRANGE ( 92-94 ) $78.55
Once again the provocative words “the best ever made” appear
in my tasting notes. In twenty-eight years, I have never
tasted a Lagrange as amazing as this 2005. Its dense ruby/purple
color is accompanied by pure notes of creme de cassis, cedar,
spice box, and a hint of cherries. Full-bodied, powerful,
and opulent, with high tannin as well as extract in addition
to great freshness, definition, and length, this long-lived
beauty should be at its finest between 2012-2030.
LEOVILLE POYFERRE ( 92-94 ) $128.03
As superb as Leoville Poyferre’s 2005 is, it does not
appear to be as profound as their 2003, but I may be proven
wrong once the wine is bottled. Flowery creme de cassis aromas
interwoven with hints of blackberries, licorice, and pain
grille jump from the glass of this opaque purple-colored
St.-Julien. Possessing medium to full body, sweet tannin,
an expansive, multilayered mid-palate, good acidity and freshness,
and a blockbuster finish, this powerful, impressively endowed
effort will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030+.
PAUILLAC
CARRUADES DE LAFITE ( 89-91 ) $98.04
Gorgeous aromas of blackberries, currants and spices. Full-bodied
and focused, with fine, tight tannins and a chocolate, berry
and licorice aftertaste. Serious second wine of Lafite.
DUHART-MILON ( 90-92 ) $80.55
Consumers should keep an eye on this estate as their wines
are getting better and better. The 2005, while not at the
level of the 2003, is an impressive blend of 71% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. It offers classic cassis notes
along with some of the lead pencil character of its more
famous sibling, Lafite Rothschild, medium body, good purity,
moderate tannin, and undeniable elegance. Anticipated maturity:
2010-2025.
GRAND PUY LACOSTE ( 92-94 ) $121.78
Following a period of mixed performances, Grand-Puy-Lacoste’s
2005 is their finest effort since 2000 and 1996. It offers
a deep ruby/purple color in addition to a beautiful, pure
bouquet of creme de cassis, full body, moderately high tannin,
and good precision, freshness, weight, and richness. Like
many of the classified growths, it is a candidate to shut
down after bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.
LYNCH BAGES ( 91-93 ) $131.78
This dense inky/purple-hued, elegant Lynch Bages will not
make tasters forget the 2000, 1996, 1990, or 1989, but
it is a big improvement over some recent indifferent efforts.
Although lacking the massiveness expected in a vintage
such as 2005, it possesses copious quantities of creme
de cassis, licorice, smoke, and minerals. With good precision,
lively acidity, wonderful purity and elegance, it may represent
a modern-day clone of the brilliant 1955 fashioned by charismatic
proprietor, Jean-Michel Cazes’, father. The 2005
will require 3-5 years of cellaring, and should evolve
for 20-25 years.
PICHON BARON ( 92-95 ) $203.00
Yield of 35 hectoliters per hectare and a final blend of
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc
have produced a black/purple-colored 2005 boasting gorgeous
intensity as well as sweet, classic creme de cassis notes
interwoven with incense, camphor, and graphite. Powerful
and full-bodied with abundant glycerin, high tannin, endearing
freshness and sweetness, and a long, 45-second finish,
this hefty (13.6% alcohol) Pauillac should be at its finest
between 2012-2030+.
PONTET CANET ( 92-94 ) $125.53
Absolutely spectacular, Pontet-Canet’s 2005 receives
the full attention of dedicated proprietor Alfred Tesseron.
Produced from yields of 35 hectoliters per hectare (25% less
wine than in 2004), it is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 25% Merlot. The first vintage vinified in tiny cement
cuves with pigeage for some lots, this wine will have 40-50
years of longevity, and should turn out to be the greatest
Pontet-Canet since such ancient classics as 1961, 1945, and
1929. It boasts an inky/purple color as well as pure creme
de cassis aromas, first-growth nobility and raciness, massive
body, tannin, and extract, and a finish that lasts nearly
a minute. With extraordinary purity and density, it is unapproachable
at present, and is best cellared until 2012, and drunk over
the following 50 years.
ST ESTEPHE
CALON SEGUR ( 93-96 ) $123.03
This is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon (as ripe and impressive
as Madame Gasqueton has ever seen) and 40% Merlot. The Merlot
was harvested between September 15-22 and the Cabernet Sauvignon
was brought in during the first two weeks of October. The
result is a classic Calon-Segur exhibiting a dense purple
color, ripe black cherry, cassis, smoke, earth, and new oak
characteristics, powerful but sweet tannin, a huge texture,
and broad, concentrated flavors. It will undoubtedly close
down after bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030+.
COS d'ESTOURNAL ( 95-97 ) $320.45
The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is made from an unusual blend
of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc.
The Merlot was picked during the last nine days of September,
and the Cabernets were finished by the 9th of October. The
2005's 13.85% alcohol is the highest this estate has ever
achieved. The implementation of such Burgundian winemaking
techniques as malolactic in barrel and aging on its lees
are resulting in wines of extraordinary texture as well as
elegance. The 2003 may be more opulent, and for my taste
a more compelling wine, but the 2005 is at the same level.
Made from yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare, it exhibits
an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of sweet
red and black fruits, camphor, cedar, and pain grille. Extraordinarily
well-defined, nuanced, and powerful, with high tannin as
well as magnificent texture and richness, this classic offering
will be uncommonly long-lived. It will not be close to drinkability
for another 5-7 years, and should last for 30 or more. A
fabulous wine!
MONTROSE ( 92-94 ) $173.01
The big news in Bordeaux is the potential sale (it had not
been finalized at the time of publication) of Chateau Montrose.
The 2005 Montrose does not quite measure up to the 2003,
but it is a beautiful effort. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon,
31% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc as well as a dollop
of Petit Verdot, it possesses an inky/blue/purple color
in addition to a sweet, provocative nose of creme de cassis,
crushed rocks, graphite, and subtle wood. Medium to full-bodied,
elegant yet powerful, fresh, and nuanced, the acids are
higher and the pH lower in 2005 than in 2002. The 2005
should be a long-lived classic, but patience will be required
despite the relatively high alcohol (13.2%), which is counterbalanced
by some of the highest tannins ever measured. Anticipated
maturity: 2015-2035.
MEDOC
SOCIANDO MALLET ( 92-94 ) $70.55
As one might expect, proprietor Jean Gautreau has produced
an uncompromisingly, potentially enormously long-lived 2005
that is as good as most Medoc cru classes. Based on previous
vintages, it will undoubtedly require 10-12 years of cellaring.
Its saturated blue/purple color is followed by a sumptuous
bouquet of blueberries, white flowers, and minerals. Fresh,
full-bodied, well-defined, and already revealing plenty of
nuances, this intensely concentrated, impeccably pure effort
is a classic vin de garde. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.
COTES DE FRANCS
PUYGUERAUD ( 92-94 ) $26.82
No Cuvee Georges was produced in 2005, but the regular Puygueraud
is a full-bodied, powerful effort boasting a black/purple
color as well as super-sweet aromas of licorice, blackberries,
raspberries, and minerals. Floral, rich, solidly constructed,
pure, nuanced, and layered, it may merit an outstanding rating
once the tannin becomes integrated. Anticipated maturity:
2010-2018
* Notes with FD by Franck Dubourdieu
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